Corner-to-Corner/C2C STRAWBERRY STITCH

The C2C strawberry stitch is a C2C stitch variation that creates a crochet piece with strawberry stitches that have a slightly puffed up or raised texture. Every row of the pattern starts and ends like a regular C2C crochet project by making a set of (ch 3, 3 dc) stitches. In between these starting stitches are either rows of (ch 3, 3 dc) sets or rows of strawberry stitches.

For this tutorial, the strawberry stitch is a modified popcorn stitch. It involves making a ch-3 space that will be worked in on the next row and a popcorn stitch with a cap. Color B is used for both the ch-3 and popcorn stitch and Color C is used for the strawberry cap. Color A is not used in the strawberry stitch itself, but is picked up at the end to make a slip stitch in the next ch-3 space.

Below are written instructions for how to make a C2C strawberry stitch square. You can favorite it on ravelry here. For a pdf version with photos and instructions for making a rectangle, check out the etsy listing here.

Materials needed:
Three (3) colors of yarn in the same weight:
Color A: any color other than green and red
Color B: a red color
Color C: a green color
Any hook size
Yarn needle to weave in end

The yarns used in this tutorial are Knit Picks Shine Worsted in the following colors:
Color A: Willow for Sections One and Two, Platinum for Section Three
Color B: Cosmopolitan
Color C: Green Apple
The hook size used with these yarns is G.

Pattern Abbreviations (in US terms):
ch: chain stitch
st/sts: stitch/stitches
sl st: slip stitch
ch- space: space made by chain stitches from a previous row
dc: double crochet stitch
strawberry: strawberry stitch (instructions for how to make in tutorial notes)
* * : repeat instructions in between asterisks as often as indicated
( ) : stitches in between ( ) are worked in the same stitch

How to make a C2C strawberry stitch:

Step 1: After making a sl st in the ch-3 space with color A, switch to
Color B and chain 3.

Step 2: With Color B, make a popcorn stitch.
1. Make 5 dc in the same ch-3 space.
2. Remove your hook from the last dc and insert it in the first dc of the set.
3. From the back, insert your hook into the loop from the fifth dc.
4. Pull the loop through the back of the first dc to the front and ch 1 to secure the popcorn stitch.

Step 3: With Color C, make the cap. When pulling up loops between stitches, insert your hook towards the bottom of the stitches.
1. Pull up a loop with Color C.
2. Insert your hook between the first and second dc of the popcorn stitch and pull up a loop (two loops on the hook).
3. Yarn over, insert your hook between the second and third dc of the popcorn stitch and pull up a loop (four loops on the hook).
4. Yarn over, insert your hook between the third and fourth dc of the popcorn stitch and pull up a loop (six loops on the hook).
5. Yarn over, insert your hook between the fourth and fifth dc of the popcorn stitch and pull up a loop. (eight loops on the hook).
6. Pull through all eight loops on the hook.
7. Switch to Color A and pull up a loop.

STARTING THE C2C STRAWBERRY SQUARE

Row 1: With Color A, ch 6 and make a dc in the 4th, 5th, and 6th chs from the hook.

Row 2: With Color A, turn your work and ch 6. Make a dc in the 4th, 5th, and 6th chs from the hook. Make a sl st in the ch-3 space from the previous row, ch 3 and make 3 dc.

Row 3: With Color A, turn your work and ch 6. Make a dc in the 4th, 5th, and 6th chs from the hook. Make a sl st in the ch-3 space from the previous row, switch to Color B and ch 3. With Colors B and C, make a strawberry. Switch to Color A and sl st in the last ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc.

Row 4 (Repeat Row): With Color A, turn your work and ch 6. Make a dc in the 4th, 5th, and 6th chs from the hook. Make a sl st in the first ch-3 space from the previous row, ch 3 and make 3 dc. *Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc.* Repeat * * for the rest of the ch-3 spaces of the row.

Row 5 (Repeat Row): With Color A, turn your work and ch 6. Make a dc in the 4th, 5th, and 6th chs from the hook. Make a sl st in the first ch-3 space, switch to Color B and ch 3. With Colors B and C make a strawberry. *With Color A, make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, switch to Color B and ch 3. With Colors B and C make a strawberry.* Repeat * * until you reach the last ch-3 space. Switch to Color A and sl st in the last ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc.

Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until you reach the size you want.

CLOSING YOUR SQUARE

Your starting row in this section depends on your last row of Section One. If the last row of Section One is a Row 4, start with Row 1 then move to Row 2. If the last row of Section One is a Row 5, start with Row 2 then move to Row 1.

A square that started on a Row 1

A square that started on a Row 2

Row 1 (Repeat Row): With Color A, turn your work, ch 1 and make a sl st in each dc to the first ch-3 space. Sl st in the ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. *With Color A, make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, switch to Color B and ch 3. With Colors B and C, make a strawberry.* Repeat * * until you reach the last 2 ch-3 spaces. Switch to Color A and make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. Move to the last ch-3 space and make a sl st.

Row 2 (Repeat Row): With Color A, turn your work, ch 1 and make a sl st in each dc to the first ch-3 space. Sl st in the ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. *Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc.* Repeat * * until you reach the last ch-3 space. Make a sl st in the last ch-3 space.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until you complete the row with either three sets of (ch 3, 3 dc) stitches or two sets of (ch 3, 3 dc) with a strawberry between them. Move to Rows 3 and 4 to finish your square.

Row 3: With Color A, turn your work, ch 1 and make a sl st in each dc to the first ch-3 space. Sl st in the ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. Make a sl st in the last ch-3 space.

Row 4: With Color A, turn your work, ch 1 and make a sl st in each dc to the first ch-3 space. Sl st in the ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. Make a sl st in the last ch-3 space.

C2C HERRINGBEAN STITCH

I’m really excited about the new C2C stitch pattern I have out. I’ve combined my two favorite stitches, the bean stitch and the hhdc stitch, to create the “Herringbean” stitch. With this stitch, diagonal stripes are created by alternating between blocks of bean stitch and hhdc stitch rows.

This is the most complicated stitch pattern I’ve made because there’s several options for customizing a C2C herringbean piece. Along with the size and shape, you decide how many rows are in each block of stitches, how many times blocks are repeated, and with which stitch to start different parts of the pattern. Although sometimes frustrating, it was ultimately a fun experience expanding my crochet skills to a more advanced level.

For anyone interested in checking out the C2C herringbean stitch, I have it up at my etsy shop here.

C2C BEAN STITCH, WITH BEADS

an example of a c2c crochet bean stitch square featuring beads

Here’s a way to incorporate beads in a C2C bean stitch crochet piece. This method can be used in non-C2C bean stitch pieces, but I’ve only used this for C2C pieces.

There are a couple of rules to follow when using beads. First, only use beads in the inside sections of the C2C piece. The first and the last stitch of a row will be a bean stitch but you can add beads at any point between those two stitches. (This means you won’t use beads in the first and last two rows of a square or rectangle because you need at least one bean stitch at the beginning and one stitch at the end of a row.) Second, you’ll alternate between rows featuring beads and rows of only bean stitches. And third, you need to use a bead that is about the same size as the bean stitches.

You can use beads in a line, alternate between bean stitches and beads, or space beads out in any other way as long as you follow the three rules above.

An incomplete C2C bean stitch piece with beads in it.

ADDING A BEAD

The steps for adding a bead are:

1. work your c2c bean stitch piece as usual until you get to the stitch where you want to add a bead
2. holding your bead close to your hook, insert your hook into the stitch below and pull up a loop about the height of your bead
3. make a slip stitch
4. chain one
5. Either work a bean stitch in the next stitch or repeat steps 1-4 to add another bead

Steps 1 – 4 for adding a bead

Where to work your bean stitches after a bead row

Since you’re alternating between rows with beads and rows with only bean stitches, you are only going to make a bean stitch in a bead space. To do this, insert your hook in the space to the left of the bead in the row below. Pull up a loop and continue to make your bean stitch as usual.

CORNER TO CORNER/C2C V-PUFF STITCH

The V-puff stitch may not be one of my go-to crochet stitches but it holds a special place in my heart because, well, it looks like a heart. A year or more ago, I tried working up a C2C V-puff piece and couldn’t get past the beginning building up part to the closing part. It was a mess of inconsistent tension and weird shaping. After gaining some more experience working with other bulky C2C projects, I figured out that the puff stitches I was using were too bulky. That’s why I used only 5 loop puff stitches for this C2C stitch pattern. When working up a C2C V-puff piece, you may notice that the corners curl up a bit. The curling is more noticeable with smaller pieces than larger ones. This is normal and should go away after blocking. I recommend making a test piece with your intended yarn and blocking it to make sure the curling is fixed.

A written pattern for this stitch is below. If you want a pdf version of the pattern that includes photos and instructions for making rectangles, you can find it here at my etsy shop. You can favorite it at ravelry here.

Materials:
Any yarn or hook can be used for this pattern.

Stitch abbreviations (in US terms):
ch/s: chain stitch, chain stitches
st/sts: stitch/stitches
dc: double crochet stitch
Puff: puff stitch
V-puff: V-puff stitch

THE PUFF STITCH

The puff stitch is made by drawing up multiple loops in a single stitch before closing the stitch and securing it with a chain stitch. This pattern uses a 5-loop puff stitch.

How to make a an 5-loop Puff stitch:
1. Yarn over, insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch (3 loops on the hook).
2. Yarn over, insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch (5 loops on the hook).
3. Yarn over and pull through all loops on the hook.
4. Ch 1 to secure your puff.

How to make a V-Puff stitch:
The V-puff stitch is made by making two puff stitches separated by a ch-1 space. For this pattern, the V-puff stitches use 5-loop puffs. To make a V-puff stitch:
1. Make one 5-loop puff stitch.
2. Chain one.
3. Make one 5-loop puff stitch.

WHERE TO MAKE PUFF STITCHES

While most of the single puff and V-puff stitches are made in the ch-1 spaces of previous V-puff stitches, some stitches are made in between stitches at the beginning and end of a row.

To make a a single puff stitch in between a double crochet and puff stitch:

Yarn over and insert your hook in the space in between the dc and the nearest puff of the V-puff stitch of the previous row. Complete your puff and finish the row as indicated by the pattern.

To make a V-puff stitch in between a V-puff stitch and single puff stitch:

Yarn over and insert your hook in the space in between the second puff of the V-puff stitch and the single puff of the previous row. Complete your puff and finish the row as indicated by the pattern.

C2C V-PUFF STITCH SECTION ONE: STARTING THE SQUARE

Row 1: ch 4 and make a V-puff and a dc in the 4th ch from the hook.
Row 2: turn your work and ch 4. Make a puff in the space between the dc and the V-puff of the previous row. Make a V-puff in the ch-1 space from the V-puff of the previous row. Make a dc in the ch-3 space.
Row 3: turn your work and ch 4. Make a puff in the space between the dc and the first V-puff of the previous row. Make a V-puff in the ch-1 space from the V-puff of the previous row. Make a V-puff in the space between the last V-puff and the single puff of the previous row. Make a dc in the ch-4 space.
Row 4: turn your work and ch 4. Make a puff in the space between the dc and the first V-puff of the previous row. Make a V-puff in every ch-1 space of the V-puffs of the previous row. Make a V-puff in the space between the last V-puff and the single puff. Make a dc in the ch-4 space.
Row 5+: Repeat Row 4. Your piece will start to get triangular in shape. When you reach the desired size, move on to Section Two to make a square.

C2C V-PUFF STITCH SECTION TWO: CLOSING THE SQUARE

Row 1: turn your work and ch 3. Make a puff in the space between the dc and the V-puff of the previous row. Make a V-puff in the ch-1 spaces of each of the V-puffs from the previous row. Skip the single puff and make a dc in the ch-4 space.
Row 2: turn your work and ch 2. Make a puff in the ch-1 space of the first V-puff of the previous row. Make a V-puff in the ch-1 spaces of the remaining V-puffs. Skip the single puff and make a dc in the ch-3 space.
Row 3: turn your work and ch 2. Make a puff in the ch-1 space of the first V-puff of the previous row. Make a V-puff in the ch-1 spaces of the remaining V-puffs. Skip the single puff and make a dc in the ch-2 space.
Row 4+: Keep repeating Row 3 until you finish the row with only one puff and one V-Puff. Then move to the Final Row.
Final Row: turn your work and ch 2. Make a V-puff in the ch-1 space of the V-puff of the previous row. Skip the single puff and make a sl st in the ch-2 space.

CORNER TO CORNER/C2C HERRINGBONE HDC NECKLINE SHAPING

C2C spider stitch neckline shaping

C2C herringbone hdc stitch pattern

I recently made a C2C hhdc sweater and was able to use the same method from my C2C spider stitch sweater to create a neckline. It just required a couple of simple adjustments for the calculations of the A, B, and C sections, and the number of rows needed for Step 2.

Materials needed:
Stitch markers
Something to write these numbers down on

The shaping starts when you’re ready to close your square or rectangle. If you’ve been working a square, you can start the shaping after any row. However, if you’ve been working a rectangle, the shaping needs to start on the edge where the slip stitches are made. For this example I’ve worked up to 30 hhdc. With this number of hhdc, we’re going to calculate three sections: A, B, and C. A and C are the shoulder sections, while B is the neckline.

First, take the total number of hhdc stitches (in this case, 30) and divide it by two. This is the number of stitches for the C section.
30/2 = 15
C = 15

Take a stitch marker and count 15 hhdc from the start of the next row. Place the marker in the 15th hhdc st. This is the marker for C.

Then, using the number 15, you are going to calculate A and B. These numbers are going to be used to shape the neckline and the shoulder depth. Since A is the shoulder and B is the neckline, the larger A is, the shorter the neckline will be. A larger B will make smaller shoulder sections. For this example, I’ll make A larger.
Decide the number of sets you want A to be then subtract that from 15 to get B.
A = 8
B = 7

Take a stitch marker and count 7 stitches from the marker for C. Place a marker in the 7th hhdc. This is the marker for B. Move to the next stitch and place a marker. This is the marker for A. Count the remaining stitches to make sure there are 8 hhdc (and a ch-2 space) left.
Here’s what the set up is before we start:

C2C HHDC STITCH – NECKLINE/SHOULDER SHAPING METHOD

STEP 1: Sections B and C worked together.

Row 1 (when starting with a square): turn your work and ch 1. Starting from the first hhdc of the previous row, make a hhdc in each st from the previous row until you reach stitch marker B. Make a sl st in the hhdc where stitch marker B is.
-or-
Row 1 (when starting with a rectangle): turn your work and ch 1. Skip 1 st (the previous sl st) and make a sl st in the next st. Ch 1 and make a hhdc in each hhdc from the previous row until you reach stitch marker B. Make a sl st in the hhdc where stitch marker B is.
Row 2: turn your work and ch 1. Skip 1 st (the previous sl st) and make a sl st in the next st. Ch 1 and make a hhdc in the next and every hhdc until the last hhdc of the previous row. Make a sl st in the last hhdc.
Row 3+: Repeat Row 2 until you’ve made a sl st in the hhdc before stitch marker C. Move on to STEP 2.

STEP 2: Section C worked only

Part 1:
You’re going to make 2 calculations before starting this step. First, divide A by 2. If A is an odd number, estimate down to an even whole number.
8/2 = 4
This is the total number of rows needed for Part 1.

Second, calculate the number of rows needed after Rows 1 and 2. To determine this number, subtract 2 from the number you just calculated.
4 – 2 = 2 more rows
This means I’m going to repeat Row 1 and Row 2 each one more time. If I had a number like 6, that would mean I would repeat Row 1 and Row 2 3 more times each. You need to finish Part 1 on a Row 2.

IMPORTANT NOTE: If you end up making the final sl st right before stitch marker C at the beginning of the row (meaning if you continued the row you’d end at the edge of the piece, where you started Row 1 of Step 1) then don’t finish the row and start Row 1 right after you make the sl st. So you’d make the final sl st, ch 2, make a hhdc in the next and every hhdc until the last hhdc of the previous row, and make a sl st in the last hhdc.

Row 1: turn your work and ch 2. Starting from the first hhdc of the previous row, make a hhdc in the next and every hhdc until the last hhdc of the previous row. Make a sl st in the last hhdc.
Row 2: turn your work and ch 1. Skip 1 st (the previous sl st) and make a sl st in the next st. Ch 1 and make a hhdc in the next and every hhdc until the ch-2 space of the previous row. Make 2 hhdc in the ch-2 space.
Row 3 – 4: repeat Rows 1 and 2

Part 2:
Row 5: turn your work and ch 1. Make a hhdc in the first and every hhdc until the last hhdc. Make a sl st in the last hhdc.
Row 6: turn your work and ch 1. Skip 1 st (the previous sl st) and make a sl st in the next st. Ch 1 and make a hhdc in the next and every hhdc until the last hhdc of the previous row. Make a sl st in the last hhdc.
Row 7+: repeat Row 5 until you have 2 hhdc remaining. Fasten off and cut your yarn. Move to STEP 3.

STEP 3: Section A worked only

If A is an even number:
Row 1: Insert your hook in the stitch to the right of stitch marker A, pull up a loop and ch 1. Make a hhdc in the hhdc marked by stitch marker A and in each hhdc to the ch-2 space. Make a sl st in the ch-2 space.
If A is an odd number:
Row 1: Insert your hook in the stitch to the right of stitch marker A, pull up a loop and ch 1. Make a sl st in the hhdc marked by stitch marker A and ch 1. Make a hhdc in the next and every hhdc of the previous row to the ch-2 space. Make a sl st in the ch-2 space.
Row 2: turn your work and ch 1. Skip 1 st (the previous sl st) and make a sl st in the next st. Ch 1 and make a hhdc in the next and every hhdc until the last hhdc of the previous row. Make a sl st in the last hhdc.
Row 3+: repeat Row 2 until you have 2 hhdc remaining. Fasten off and cut your yarn.

C2C POPCORN STITCH WITH A 3 DC BORDER SQUARE

A C2C Popcorn stitch square made with KnitPick’s Shine Worsted yarn, in color Sweet Potato

This C2C pattern combines two different stitches: the popcorn stitch and the C2C set of ch-3, 3 dc. The popcorn stitch is made with a set of five double crochet stitches that are joined at the top with a slip stitch. This non-reversible stitch has a puffy, raised appearance. Because the popcorn stitch is visible from only one side of a crochet piece, the pattern alternates between rows of the popcorn stitch and rows of sets of ch-3, 3 dc. The border of double crochet stitches creates a contrast with the popcorn stitches, along with an easy way to join the square with other squares to create a variety of projects. This square created by this pattern is 5 inches.

The written instructions for this pattern are below. If you want a pdf version of this pattern that contains photo guides, along with instructions for modifying the size, you can find it here at my etsy shop. You can favorite it on ravelry here.

Gauge: Working Rows 1 -3 from the pattern should create sides that are 2 inches long. (One side may be slightly less than 2 inches, but that is fine as long as the other side is 2 inches.)

Materials:
34 yards of Worsted weight yarn
Size G crochet hook
Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Stitch abbreviations (in US terms):
C2C: Corner to Corner Crochet
ch: chain stitch
dc: double crochet
popcorn: popcorn stitch
sl st: slip stitch
st/sts: stitch/stitches
* *: repeat instructions in between asterisks as often as indicated

HOW TO MAKE THE POPCORN STITCH

1. Make 5 double crochet in a single stitch/space.
2. Remove your hook from the loop and insert it in the top of the first double crochet stitch.
3. Insert your hook into the loop from the fifth double crochet stitch.
4. Pull the loop through the first double crochet stitch.
5. Chain 1 to secure your popcorn stitch.

C2C POPCORN STITCH SQUARE WITH 3 DC BORDER PATTERN

Row 1: ch 6 and make a dc in the 4th, 5th, and 6th chs from the hook.

Row 2: turn your work and ch 6. Make a dc in the 4th, 5th, and 6th chs from the hook. Make a sl st in the ch-3 space from the previous row, ch 3 and make 3 dc.

Row 3: turn your work and ch 6. Make a dc in the 4th, 5th, and 6th chs from the hook. Make a sl st in the ch-3 space from the previous row, ch 3 and make a popcorn. Sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc.

Row 4: turn your work and ch 6. Make a dc in the 4th, 5th, and 6th chs from the hook. Make a sl st in the first ch-3 space from the previous row, ch 3 and make 3 dc. *Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc.* Repeat * * two more times.

Row 5: turn your work and ch 6. Make a dc in the 4th, 5th, and 6th chs from the hook. Make a sl st in the first ch-3 space, ch 3 and make a popcorn. *Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make a popcorn.* Repeat * * one more time. Sl st in the last ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc.

Row 6: turn your work and ch 6. Make a dc in the 4th, 5th, and 6th chs from the hook. Make a sl st in the first ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. *Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc.* Repeat * * three more times.

Row 7: turn your work and ch 6. Make a dc in the 4th, 5th, and 6th chs from the hook. Make a sl st in the first ch-3 space, ch 3 and make a popcorn. *Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make a popcorn.* Repeat * * three more times. Sl st in the last ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc.

Row 8: turn your work and ch 6. Make a dc in the 4th, 5th, and 6th chs from the hook. Make a sl st in the first ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. *Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc.* Repeat * * five more times.

Row 9: turn your work, ch 1 and make a sl st in each dc to the first ch-3 space. Sl st in the ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. *Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make a popcorn.* Repeat * * four more times. Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. Make a sl st in the last ch-3 space.

Row 10: turn your work, ch 1 and make a sl st in each dc to the first ch-3 space. Sl st in the ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. *Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc.* Repeat * * four more times. Make a sl st in the last ch-3 space.

Row 11: turn your work, ch 1 and make a sl st in each dc to the first ch-3 space. Sl st in the ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. *Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make a popcorn.* Repeat * * two more times. Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. Make a sl st in the last ch-3 space.

Row 12: turn your work, ch 1 and make a sl st in each dc to the first ch-3 space. Sl st in the ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. *Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc.* Repeat * * two more times. Make a sl st in the last ch-3 space.

Row 13: turn your work, ch 1 and make a sl st in each dc to the first ch-3 space. Sl st in the ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make a popcorn. Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. Make a sl st in the last ch-3 space.

Row 14: turn your work, ch 1 and make a sl st in each dc to the first ch-3 space. Sl st in the ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. Make a sl st in the last ch-3 space.

Row 15: turn your work, ch 1 and make a sl st in each dc to the first ch-3 space. Sl st in the ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. Make a sl st in the last ch-3 space.

C2C BEAN STITCH

The bean stitch can be a little intimidating for a beginner (so many loops!) but after some practice, it’s an easy way to provide a lot of texture and dimension to a crochet piece. Normal, non-C2C bean stitches already have a very strong slant that switches from left to right with each new row. C2C bean stitches also have that switching slant though it produces a different effect; the beans of one row look horizontal, while the beans of the next row look vertical.

This C2C variation involves increasing or decreasing by one stitch per row. The number of bean stitches in a row is going to be one higher or one lower than the previous row. (For example, after completing a row with 5 beans, the next row will have 6 beans if you’re still continuing the square or 4 beans if you’re closing the square.) Increases are made at the beginning of the row while decreases (Bean Across 2 Stitches/BA2) are made in the last two stitches of a row.

Below are text instructions for making a C2C bean stitch crochet square. A pdf download of this pattern that contains step-by-step photo guides along with instructions for making a C2C bean stitch rectangle can be found at my etsy shop here. You can also favorite/queue it on ravelry here.

Materials:
Any kind of yarn
A crochet hook in a size appropriate for the yarn used
Yarn needle for weaving in ends
Stitch markers are recommended for marking the ch-2 spaces created at the beginning of rows.

Stitch abbreviations (in US terms):
C2C: Corner to Corner Crochet
ch: chain stitch
bean: bean stitch
BA2: bean across two stitches

PATTERN NOTES:

MAKING THE BEAN STITCH

1. Insert your hook in the stitch below, yarn over and pull through the stitch. (2 loops on your hook)
2. Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch. (4 loops on your hook)
3. Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch. (6 loops on your hook)
4. Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops.
5. Ch 1 to close the bean.

Remember, when making a bean, insert your hook into the side of the bean below, not the ch 1 closing stitch.

HOW TO MAKE A BEAN ACROSS 2 STITCHES (BA2):

For Row 1 and the decreasing rows, you’re going to need to make a bean stitch across 2 stitches (BA2). To do this,follow these steps:

1. Work a bean stitch in one stitch until you have 4 loops on your hook. (Insert your hook in the first stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch, yarn over, insert your hook in the same stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch.)
2. Move to the next stitch and create 2 more loops for a total of 6 loops on your hook across 2 stitches. (Yarn over, insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch.)
3. Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops.
4. Ch 1 to close the BA2.

THE CH 1 CLOSING STITCH

Each bean consists of the “bean” (the loops drawn up and pulled through) and a ch 1 closing stitch. DO NOT FORGET THE CH 1 CLOSING STITCH. You end a row with a bean and a ch 1. When you start a new row, this ch 1 will not be included in the instructions for how many chains to make at the start of the row. So if a row starts off with “ch 2” that means you will have a total of 3 chains made: the closing chain from the last row and two new chains to start the new row.

WHERE TO MAKE YOUR BEAN AT THE END OF A ROW

At the beginning of a row, you’re going to create a chain space and a bean. I highly recommend using a stitch marker to mark the space between the chain space and the bean to make it easier to work in this space later.

• For rows that start with “ch 2”, place a stitch marker around the ch 2 space and continue with the pattern.
• For rows that don’t start with “ch 2”, place the stitch marker around the closing ch 1 of the last bean from the previous row and continue with the new row.

After marking this space and completing the row, you’ll move on to the next row. When you get to the end of the row, instead of working in the side of the last bean, you’ll work in the space between the bean and the chain space.

PATTERN

STARTING THE C2C BEAN STITCH

Row 1: ch 4 and make a bean across the 3rd and 4th chs from the hook (BA2).

Row 2: turn your work and ch 2. Make a bean in the 3rd ch from the hook and a bean in the space between the bean and ch-2 space from the previous row.

Row 3: turn your work and ch 2. Make a bean in the 3rd ch from the hook. Then make a bean in the side of every bean from the previous row until the last bean stitch. At the last bean of the row, make a bean in the space between the bean and the ch-2 space.

Row 4+: Keep repeating Row 3 until you reach your desired size.

CLOSING THE C2C BEAN STITCH SQUARE

Row 1: turn your work and make a bean in the first and every bean until the last two stitches. Make a BA2 in the last two beans. While making the BA2, work the first 4 loops in the side of the first bean and the last 2 loops in the space made in between the bean and ch-2 space of the previous row.

Row 2: turn your work and make a bean in the first and every bean until the last two stitches. Make a BA2 in the last two beans. While making the BA2, work the first 4 loops in the side of the first bean and the last 2 loops in the the space made from the second bean and the closing ch from the row before it.

Row 3: Keep repeating Row 2 until you get to the end. Your last row will consist of only one BA2.

C2C HERRINGBONE HDC STITCH

A green C2C herringbone hdc square made with Knit Pick’s acrylic Brava yarn

This is possibly my favorite C2C variation I’ve worked on so far. Like the lemon peel stitch, this stitch has a really wonderful texture that seems to work well with any type of yarn. The herringbone hdc stitch is a simple variation on the normal hdc stitch that really changes the look and texture of the hdc stitch. The herringbone hdc stitches are slanted stitches that, unlike the hdc stitch, don’t have the appearance of a straight line created by a front loop. Instead, a line of little bumps is made.

A pink C2C herringbone hdc square made from Knit Pick’s Dishie cotton yarn

Unlike the normal herringbone hdc stitch, where the lines would run horizontally from one side to the other, the lines in the C2C herringbone hhdc stitch piece run diagonally, starting from one corner at the bottom and running to the top corner on the opposite side of the piece. The basics of this method are making a ch-2 space at the beginning of each row that will be worked in at the end of the next row. This means you’ll be making an increase of two stitches per row. When it comes to decreasing, with the exception of the first decrease row, a total of two decreases will be made per row. One decrease will be made at the beginning of a row while the second will be made at the end. You should always have an even number of stitches for each row.

As a little aside for those wondering about substituting the herringbone hdc with the herringbone dc stitch: my first attempts at a C2C herringbone variation were with the herringbone dc stitch and I could not find a way to create a square that had a similar stretchiness along the starting and closing sides. The sides created at the beginning were so much more elastic than the closing sides. So, if you’re thinking about using this method to make a triangle, then substituting the herringbone hdc with a herringbone dc would be fine. However, I don’t recommend this change for creating a square.

Below are text instructions for making a C2C herringbone hdc stitch crochet square. A pdf download of this pattern that contains step-by-step photo guides along with instructions for making a C2C herringbone hdc rectangle can be found at my etsy shop here. You can also favorite/queue it on ravelry here.

Materials needed:
Any kind of yarn
A crochet hook in a size appropriate for the yarn used
Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Stitch abbreviations (in US terms):
C2C: Corner to Corner Crochet
ch: chain stitch
hhdc: herringbone hdc stitch
sl st: slip stitch
st/sts: stitch/stitches

Notes:

A. HOW TO MAKE A HERRINGBONE HDC STITCH

1. Yarn over, insert your hook into the stitch. (Two loops on the hook.)
2. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. (Three loops on the hook.)
3. Do not yarn over. Pull the left loop through the middle loop. (Two loops on the hook.)
4. Yarn over and pull through the remaining 2 loops.

B. ch-2 spaces: a ch-2 space will be created at the beginning of each row. This space will not be worked in until the end of the following row. That space might be hard to get to if you’re not used to it. So after chaining 2 at the start of the row, take a stitch marker and place it around the chain that’s closest to the hook before you make the next stitch. This can help you find that space when it needs to be worked in the next row.

C. ch-1 spaces and slip stitches: In the “CLOSING YOUR SQUARE” section, you will see instructions to “turn your work and ch 1” and to “make a sl st, ch 1, and make a hhdc” . These ch 1 spaces and slip stitches will not be worked in later in the pattern. 

STARTING THE C2C HERRINGBONE HDC STITCH

Row 1: ch 3 and make 2 hhdc in the third chain from the hook.

Row 2: turn your work and ch 2. Make a hhdc in the 3rd st from the hook (the last hhdc of the previous row) and in the next st. Make 2 hhdc in the ch-2 space.

Row 3: turn your work and ch 2. Starting from the 3rd st from the hook (the last hhdc of the previous row), make a hhdc in each st to the ch-2 space. Make 2 hhdc in the ch-2 space.

Row 4+: Repeat Row 3, starting each row with a ch 2 and making a hhdc in each stitch until you get to the ch-2 space at the end, where you work 2 hhdc.

CLOSING YOUR SQUARE

Row 1: turn your work and ch 1. Starting from the first hhdc of the previous row, make a hhdc in each st to the ch-2 space. Make a sl st in the ch-2 space.

Row 2: turn your work and ch 1. Skip 1 st (the previous sl st) and make a sl st in the next st. Ch 1 and make a hhdc in the next and every hhdc until the last hhdc. Make a sl st in the last hhdc.

Row 3+: Keep repeating Row 2 until you have 4 hhdc sts left. Then move to the Final Row.

Final Row: turn your work and ch 1. Skip 1 st (the previous sl st) and make a sl st in the next. Ch 1 and make a hhdc in the next 2 sts. Make a sl st in the last st.

C2C PUFF STITCH SQUARE WITH A 3 DC BORDER

A C2C puff stitch square with a 3 dc border, made from Knit Pick’s Dishie yarn, color Kenai

This C2C pattern combines two different stitches: the Puff stitch and the C2C set of ch-3, 3 dc. The puff stitch is a thick crochet stitch that provides a puffy, raised texture to any crochet project. Working them in the C2C crochet method causes the direction of the puffs change with each row. The 3 dc border creates a contrast with the puff stitches, along with an easy way to join the square with other squares to create a variety of projects. This square created by this pattern is 4.5 inches.

The written instructions for this pattern are below. If you want a pdf version of this pattern that contains photo guides, along with instructions for modifying the size and type of puff used, you can find it here at my etsy shop. You can favorite it on ravelry here.

Gauge: Working Rows 1 -3 from the pattern should create sides that are 2 inches long. (One side may be slightly less than 2 inches, but that is fine as long as the other side is 2 inches.)

Materials:
24 yards of Worsted weight yarn
Size G crochet hook
Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Stitch abbreviations (in US terms):
C2C: Corner to Corner Crochet
ch: chain stitch
dc: double crochet
puff: puff stitch
sl st: slip stitch
st/sts: stitch/stitches
* *: repeat instructions in between asterisks as often as indicated

THE PUFF STITCH

The puff stitch is made by drawing up multiple loops in a single stitch before closing the stitch. A chain stitch secures the stitch. Puffs can be made by drawing up different numbers of loops before closing. This pattern uses an 11-loop puff stitch.

To make a an 11-loop puff stitch:

1. Yarn over, insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch (3 loops on the hook).
2. Yarn over, insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch (5 loops on the hook).
3. Yarn over, insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch (7 loops on the hook).
4. Yarn over, insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch (9 loops on the hook).
5. Yarn over, insert your hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch (11 loops on the hook).
6. Yarn over and pull through all loops on the hook.
7. Ch 1 to secure your puff.

C2C PUFF STITCH SQUARE WITH 3 DC BORDER PATTERN

Row 1: ch 6 and make a dc across the 4th, 5th, and 6th chs from the hook.

Row 2: turn your work and ch 6. Make a dc across the 4th, 5th, and 6th chs from the hook. Make a sl st in the ch-3 space from the previous row, ch 3 and make 3 dc.

Row 3: turn your work and ch 6. Make a dc across the 4th, 5th, and 6th chs from the hook. Make a sl st in the ch-3 space from the previous row, ch 3 and make a puff. Sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc.

Row 4: turn your work and ch 6. Make a dc across the 4th, 5th, and 6th chs from the hook. *Make a sl st in the ch-3 space from the previous row, ch 3 and make a puff.* Repeat * * one more time. Sl st in the last ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc.

Row 5: turn your work and ch 6. Make a dc across the 4th, 5th, and 6th chs from the hook. *Make a sl st in the ch-3 space from the previous row, ch 3 and make a puff.* Repeat * * two more times. Sl st in the last ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc.

Row 6: turn your work and ch 6. Make a dc across the 4th, 5th, and 6th chs from the hook. *Make a sl st in the ch-3 space from the previous row, ch 3 and make a puff.* Repeat * * three more times. Sl st in the last ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc.

Row 7: turn your work and ch 6. Make a dc across the 4th, 5th, and 6th chs from the hook. *Make a sl st in the ch-3 space from the previous row, ch 3 and make a puff.* Repeat * * four more times. Sl st in the last ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc.

Row 8: turn your work, ch 1 and make a sl st in each st to the first ch-3 space. Sl st in the ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. *Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make a puff.* Repeat * * three more times. Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. Make a sl st in the last ch-3 space.

Row 9: turn your work, ch 1 and make a sl st in each st to the first ch-3 space. Sl st in the ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. *Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make a puff.* Repeat * * two more times. Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. Make a sl st in the last ch-3 space.

Row 10: turn your work, ch 1 and make a sl st in each st to the first ch-3 space. Sl st in the ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make a puff. Repeat * * one more time. Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. Make a sl st in the last ch-3 space.

Row 11: turn your work, ch 1 and make a sl st in each st to the first ch-3 space. Sl st in the ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make a puff. Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. Make a sl st in the last ch-3 space.

Row 12: turn your work, ch 1 and make a sl st in each st to the first ch-3 space. Sl st in the ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. Make a sl st in the next ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. Make a sl st in the last ch-3 space.

Row 13: turn your work, ch 1 and make a sl st in each st to the first ch-3 space. Sl st in the ch-3 space, ch 3 and make 3 dc. Make a sl st in the last ch-3 space.

Finish your project by cutting your yarn, leaving a long tail, and pulling through your last worked stitch. Then use a yarn needle to weave your end in. Block your piece according to the type of yarn used.

C2C SEDGE STITCH

A green C2C sedge stitch crochet square, made from Knit Pick’s Shine Worsted yarn, color Peapod

If I were playing a game of word association, I would associate the “sedge stitch” with the word “floral”. The stitch has this kind of chunky texture that just gives off plant-like feeling. So I like using this stitch with floral colors: greens, blues, pinks and purples. Playing around with different yarn weights, I’ve found that this stitch works really beautifully with lighter weight yarns that give it a looser, spacier feel.

A close-up of the C2C sedge stitches

This is another beginner friendly, easy to work stitch; it’s simply making a single crochet, half double crochet, and double crochet in the single crochets of the previous row. This C2C sedge stitch pattern takes this [sc, hdc, dc] repeat and incorporates in into the C2C method of construction, making the stitches run on the bias.

A printable pdf with pictures and instructions for squares and rectangles is at my etsy here. The ravelry page for the pattern is here.

Materials needed:
Any kind of yarn
A crochet hook in a size appropriate for the yarn used
Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Stitch Abbreviations (in US terms:)
C2C: Corner to Corner Crochet
ch: chain stitch
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
st/sts: stitch/stitches
* *: repeat instructions in between asterisks as often as indicated
[ ]: everything in the brackets is worked in the same stitch

A blue C2C sedge stitch square, made from Knit Pick’s Brava sport yarn, color Sky

STARTING THE C2C SEDGE STITCH

Row 1: ch 3 and make a [hdc, dc] in the 3rd ch from the hook. (This makes a ch-2 space and a [hdc, dc].)
Row 2: turn your work and ch 2. Make a [sc, hdc, dc] in the second ch from the hook and in the ch-2 space of the previous row.
Row 3: turn your work and ch 2. Make a [sc, hdc, dc] in the second ch from the hook. *Skip 2 stitches, make [sc, hdc, dc] in the next st.*  Repeat * * to the end.
Row 4+: Keep repeating Row 3 until you reach the size you want.

CLOSING YOUR SQUARE

Row 1: turn your work and ch 2. Make a [sc, hdc, dc] in the second ch from the hook. *Skip 2 sts, make a [sc, hdc, dc] in the next st.* Repeat * * until the last 3 sts. Skip 1 st, make a sl st in the last hdc.
Row 2: turn your work and ch 1. Make a sl st in the second st (the dc of the last row), ch 1, skip the next st and [sc, hdc, dc] in the next st. *Skip 2 sts, make a [sc, hdc, dc] in the next st.* Repeat * * to the last 3 sts. Skip 2 sts, make a sl st in the last sc of the previous row.
Row 3+: Keep repeating Row 2 until you have one set of [sc, hdc, dc] left. For the final row you can either make the sl st in the last sc or the last hdc.